Last days in Kathmandu

Just about fully recovered now in Kathmandu and fly back to the UK early tomorrow morning.
I'm ready for the familiarity of home, although I'll still be alone when I get there as my family are on holiday in Turkey. I've been away a long time. I wonder what has happened in the X-Factor since Ive been gone!

Its the start of the Hindu Festival of lights - Divali and the city is very colourful at night with the streets adorned with multi coloured lights and candles lit everywhere. Last night I was invited into the home of Sidar Lakpa Sherpa to share a meal with him and his family. He lives with his wife, mother in law and 3 children - one just 5 months old in 2 very basic rooms - no carpet, no heating, in downtown Kathmandu. It was humbling and an honour.

This morning before breakfast I took a flight back to the Mountains, seeing them all from above this time. The skys were clear and there has been alot of snow in the last few days. I think my achievement is only just begining to sink in.

Retracing the 70 mile trek from the air was quite an emotional experience for me. I wasnt quite blubbing like a baby, but there was certainly a lump in my throat when we flew past Mount Everest.

Got there!

Just a very quick post. I got there. It was very hard work. Im on my way back now. Hope to be in Kathmandu on Saturday or Sunday and back in the UK Tuesday night all being well. Ive loads of photos and have kept a diary. I'll publish everything as soon as I can.

Tengbouche Monastry

After several days climbing I'm now at Tengbouche Monastry at almost 4000m.
The air is thinning - its becoming difficult to breath but Im in good health with no signs of Altitude Sickness.

I go up another 500m tomorrow to Dingbouche and following a further day for acclimatisation I climb 500m to my attack camp at Loubouche. I'll stay they a day for acclimatisation and then I'll trek to Base Camp. We hope to be there on MOnday at about 1.30pm

The hospitality of the people here has to be experienced to be believed. I am treated like royalty. Nothing is too much trouble.

Must go - Satelite Internet is expensive here!

Kathmandu to Lukla in the Himalayan Foothills

After several hours stood waiting at the airport (there was yesterdays backlog to clear and I wasnt on the first plane out as I had been told) we eventually get crammed onto a vintage twin prop plane and catapulted into the air. We are on our way at last.


About an hour later we touch down at Lukla airport with its tiny runway.

Because of the flight delay our litchen staff will not be cooking. They will press on and set up tonight's camp. We lunch in Sherpa's friend's house. Very traditional with a wood stove cooker and no lighting.




The children seem intrigued to see me! Lots of peeking around corners and running off giggling. I call them over and show them pictures of my family on my phone. They are mesmorised and the photo of Megan pulling a funny face draws hysterical laughter.
My bit done for international relations!

Lunch is served. Noodle soup. Lots of it. I didnt realise this was just the starter and it is soon followed by a huge plate of rice and some watery curry, a garnish of chilies in oil and an ommelette. I dont want to cause offence but this is way too much food for me. I sample a bit of each. It is a problem that will recur throughout my trip! The hosts hospitality is wonderful.

Still in Kathmandu!

Well this is unexpected! After a night with very little sleep - I didnt drop off til about 3am and was up again at 5.30 I was picked up at the hotel and taken to the rather less glamerous than it's name suggess Kathmandu International Airport. In fairness we were at the internal flight terminal which is the little sh*thole around the corner form the main concourse used for international flights.

Our plane was due to fly at 8.05, first one of the day and my Sirdar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sardar_%28Sherpa%29) was awesome!! He saw his friend behind the check in desk and litterally climbed over everyones baggage and even some passengers to get right to the front of the queue. In fact we didnt even bother queueing! We were flight side as everyone else were giving us absolutely filthy looks as they patiently waited. I looked around and the Sirdir had gone again... he returned to explain that the main party had gone ahead yesterday and reported back that there was a fuel shortage for cooking. They couldnt get it anywhere so he happened to see another friend and arranged to borrow some!! So it doesnt matter where you are or what you do, it seems that throughout the world it isnt what you know is who you know that counts!

Countless hours passed as flight after flight was delayed then cancelled because of bad weather at the Lukla airstrip http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lukla meant no planes could land all day. SO I find myself at the Kathmandu Crown Plaza! We will try again to leave tomorrow.

Already my decisoin to have a private trek with spare days for bad weather etc has proved justified!

Oh and bizarrely - in all the joints in all the world, I bumped into Dr Jim from Ben Foggles Extreme Dreams - Killimanjara programme and had a good natter to him.

Must go. byeee!

Kathmandu

The alarm went off at 7am Kathmandu time. Surely its not time to get up already. I could sleep for a week! May press the snooze button once...or twice.

7.18 I must get up I need to wash and sort some laundry out before breakfast and Im being collected at 9. I should have told the driver to call for me at 10. Look out of the bedroom window - something catches my eye. Some movement. A wild Monkey! It jumped up onto a perimeter wall about 10 metres from my window. Quick - wheres my camera. Got it! Got Him .. just about! Not a good picture but captured nonetheless.

Time for a bath. An interesting bathroom. Authentic probably best describes it.

A little grumble to myself about the hot water being luke warm until I remember that this is likely to be the hottest bath I will enjoy for the next 3 weeks and I am grateful for it.

I rummage through my bag. Oh no! some powder from my medical kit has escaped and covered alot of things. Oh well. A quick dust off and everything is fine again.

Breakfast. I think I'm hungry. Im not sure. I'm desperate for a cup of tea though and am pleased to be offered the first of what will prove to be many "milk tea" on the garden terrace. I wonder if there is a hint here that "milk tea" is for the westerners and usually its black .. or green. Maybe I should have opted for the black tea. Nah!

Time is rushing. I have only just got up, now I am scrambling for my essentials for this mornings tour of Kathmandu. Water, sun scream, notebook, camera, medicines, wet wipes and clinique moisturising spray!! What more could a man want!

Just about on time, I meet up with Rajesh. His large sunglasses and broad grin are a welcome and comforting sight. I quickly cash a travellers cheque at the hotel and am escorted to a black mercedes that has been brought around to the hotel entrance. I get into the back and we are away.

I cant help remembering the book that Terry Waite wrote, detailling his ordeal in Beirut. He was travelling like this! The streets we cruise down, run down by western standards seem fact of life in these types of City. There isnt squalor that I have seen yet though. No piles of rotting rubbish. No malnutritioned children pitifully begging. But it is a financially poor place. Of that there is no doubt. The roads, the pavements, the buildings all seem almost medieval. Yet they obviously function and I doubt the maintenance bill is high.

I'm fed a constant stream of information en-route to our first stop. I try to show an interest and nod appropriately. I have my regulation dark glasses on and would rather look at whats happening outside the car than absorb the local legends and the tale of how one chap cut off his father's head by mistake.

I am assured that the streets are quiet, but they look busy to me. Cars, vans, bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, mopeds, minibuses. Everyone in the road. The system looks dangerous to me. Overcrowded little busses with even more people packed onto the roof, clinging to the roofrack. Vaery small children litterally holding on for dear life with one hand on the back door. Entire families complete with bags of shopping riding a moped. Kids on the handlebars, mum on the pillion and dad driving. Dad is the only one wearing a crash helmet. This is normal here.

Suddenly we pull over. Almost hidden down a side street is the entrance to Kathmandu's largest "Stupar", a buddest monument white, domed and with painted on eyes peering down. I see the first colourful prayer flags which cloak the site there are so many of them. This place was granted World Heritage Site status in 1979 ... apparently.

Still no improvement - and I fly out tonight

Disaster! Still no improvement.

Again a night of broken sleep. I feel OK but I still cant eat, my skin is clammy and I'm hot. I'm assured that I look fine.

I have 4 weapons against upset stomach in my extraordinarily extensive home made trekking medical kit. I have pills and potions in there to cover all circumstances including but not exclusively Typhoid, Smallpox, a range of melanomas and nuclear attack. I decide that I need to dip into my magic set and I carefully select a mid level anti diahorrea potion, blackcurrent flavoured presumably to make it seem more appealing. It isnt.

The milky looking fluid tastes as bad as it looks. But it seems to help so I dont care!

I think Becky may be changing her diagnosis. The issue seems to be being taken more seriously today!

Dried toast is offered as an alternative to the oranges that I have testing my system with. I accept and cautiously eat half a slice. Slight discomfort but systems are going. Great I now have my window of oppertunity to check and repack. I grasp it with both arms. There isnt a moment to lose.

Soon we are on the way and M25 traffic is bad. I check in at 7.30, 2 hours ahead of flight but with a 40 minute walk to the gate and boarding at 8.30 there isnt much time. A brave farewell and we part. After an extended loo visit en route I need to call in the big guns and take a couple of immodium!

(Im having to precis from now as my online time is limited at the moment)

The flight took off 2 hours late and arrived in Kathmandu via a brief stop at Doha where the airport was well organised and spotless.

Almost had no baggage - we were told the London package of bags was still at Doha but suddenly the belt started up again and out they came.

Arrived at th ehotem and was presented with a silk hindu garland and a drink to welcome me to Nepal. Expect a photo here when I get back!